Purfle

I took a costume design class a few years back where we had to design fancy 18th century clothing for bourgeois English characters. In England, it was fashionable at this time to follow french style, so I had the opportunity to copy/reinvent some 18th century French costumes. Many of my renderings had gold brocade purfling the skirt hems.


Why did English bourgeois look to the French for fashion inspiration? Throughout history, the nations of Europe were more or less equally stylish until French fashion began to spring ahead of the English during the 17th century when England was understandably preoccupied with mass plagues and fires. This was also the time of the French Sun King Louis XIV whose clothing was lavishly embellished from head to toe. In the photo to the left, you'll note that his collar is purfled with an elaborate gold rope, his hands are purfled with copious lace, and even the velvet rug hanging in the background is purfled with gold brocade and huge tassels.

Early in the 18th century, Louis XV's mistress, Madame Pompidou (below), was quite the trend-setter. She would purfle her neckline with lace and purfle her hems with flowers.














So you see, the French may or may not have been the original purflers, but they certainly perfected the art of purfling!

For more on France's influence on fashion, click here.